Leaving our cabin in the dark, we made the short drive through the winding, empty roads of Glencoe, headlights catching only fleeting glimpses of the towering shapes around us. Our destination was the Three Sisters lookout, but at that hour, the famous peaks were little more than darker shadows against the star-pale sky. Even in the gloom, there was a heavy sense of scale from the imposing peaks.
The hike itself is about 5km out and back, not the longest, but the steep rugged Scottish landscape demands respect. There's only a small car park at the trailhead, so if you're planning to come later in the day, parking can be a headache – another reason to start before everyone else stirs (especially the tour buses!).
Bundling up against the chill, we shouldered our gear and set off, our headlamps throwing narrow tunnels of light across the rocky path. The stillness was broken only by the distant rush of the river, tumbling somewhere out of sight below us. The trail into Coire Gabhail — the Lost Valley — lay hidden between the flanks of the mountains, and with each step forward into the darkness, we felt more and more like we were leaving the waking world behind.
As we climbed further up into the heart of the valley, dawn began to creep into the sky. At first, it was just a soft blue brushing the tops of the peaks, but then, almost without warning, the sun cracked the horizon. Golden rays poured into the valley, breaking between the massive cliffs and sending beams of light straight down onto the rocky floor. It was breathtaking – the kind of light that every landscape photographer dreams of.
Footing was tricky in places with wet rock, washed out paths and some mild scrambling keeping our eyes up and focused. One section half way up had us climbing along a small rocky ledge above the river, but the rock had plenty of grip in the dry. A little further along the path crosses the river, but with plenty of boulders to keep the feet dry. Bad weather would make this hike extremely tricky, with heavy rainfall making the small river crossing near impossible.
I paused often, almost too often, framing shot after shot. The contrast between the cool shadows of the valley walls and the molten gold of the sunbeams created natural compositions everywhere I looked. Water, light, stone – all layered perfectly. Every cascade of the river posing fresh compositions!
The valley itself is broad and open, giving space for the light to really work its magic. Surrounded by peaks, the dried river bed running through the valley hints at an underground water passage. We took our time in this uninterrupted isolation, having the valley to ourselves to explore.
Photography Tips for Coire Gabhail:
Leave early: Aim to be halfway into the valley as the sun rises. You'll catch the golden hour as it sweeps through the landscape.
Bring a tripod: For longer exposures of the cascading river sections.
Wide angle and telephoto lenses: A wide angle to capture the vastness, but a telephoto to pick out dramatic light and shadow patterns on the valley walls.
Waterproof shoes: Parts of the trail can be boggy and you’ll definitely get close to water for the best shots. The river crossing was passable, but any rain would quickly rise the levels above the rocks.
Pack light: The terrain is uneven, and the less you’re carrying, the better you'll move when chasing the perfect light.
As we made our way down, the sun continued its slow, deliberate climb, sending light spilling deeper into the heart of the valley. Shadows retreated from the valley floor, and the golden glow that had first touched only the highest ridges now warmed the rocks, the river, and the twisting trees around us.
A perfect Scottish morning, the highlands at their best.
